As you know today would be spent heading to Death Valley. I left Sacramento in the morning to head East again...via US 50 and South on US 395. Destination unknown, Furnace Creek Campground. It has been a few years old friend, since you cooked us like a rotisserie chicken. Let the good times roll. Only an anticipated (8) eight hour ride today, the saddle time shorter each day I approach home. I made plans to see a few friends while in Death Valley today.

While on US 50 I thought I had seen small towns and then I rode past Twin Bridges, CA. If I remember correctly it said population (50) fifty on the sign whether it is more or less is impressive. I imagine everyone must know each other but maybe not. As I continued through the mountain the temperature dropped down to 49 degrees Fahrenheit and thankfully not for too long. I filled up in Meyers, CA which should provide me enough fuel to make it to Bishop, CA. I thought I would have to go through an agricultural checkpoint but fortunately it was only for recreational vehicles and non-California residents.

I rode through the mountains one last time while enjoying the weather and trees. It would be a drastic shift in climate and scenery by the end of the day. What I did not know is I was going to leave California...again. I rode through Nevada just for a little bit before making it back into California and another checkpoint. While I continued there was a vista point turnout I regret not stopping at because it offered a beautiful view. I was on the phone with a couple friends expressing my joy and disappointment at the missed opportunity. This view overlooked a body of water, Mono Lake. I eventually made it through the town and it was a good thing I stopped for gas earlier. The price for regular gasoline in Chevron was $5.39/gallon.

I continued on towards Bishop to fuel the motorcycle and my body. While on the way I saw the usual signs with miles to go indicators: Bishop # miles, etc. and then I saw Tom's Place. Who is Tom and where is this place? I had asked my friend on the phone but they of course had no idea either. I eventually passed it, but I kept riding because after all I have a timeline to keep.

I finally made it to Bishop around 1300. I could not decide on lunch until an El Pollo Loco billboard decided it for me. Chicken good. I decided to keep it light and I only ordered a (2) two piece chicken combo. It was significantly warmer so I thought it might be a good time to remove my hoodie and jacket liner. I packed up my warm layers to prepare for more heat in a few hours.

As I continued on US 395 I passed through (Fort) Independence with a historical landmark for Mary Austin's home. A short ride through and some minutes later I was in Lone Pine, a gateway to Death Valley.

Little town lots of charm.

I knew this would be my last major stop before Death Valley so I had set the GPS to take me to a gasoline station. While I was riding, I naturally waved at other motorcyclists...and then I realized I passed the stop. So I made u-turn to ensure I would have earth fuel and water. I was too lazy to sort out storage for the water bottles so I tucked it into my jacket thinking it might help keep me cool.

I turned at the junction and headed towards my destination. I was still a ways out but I provided my friends with estimated times of arrival while at the gas station. I only hoped my messages had been received due to a lack of cellular service in parts of the park. I rode for a ways and I was slowly distancing myself from civilization.

There it was, the sign demarcating Death Valley, I would soon begin my descent into madness hell below sea level, on land. Remember those water bottles I loaded in my jacket? It was quite uncomfortable and it was no longer keeping me cool. The idea was not worth the minimal reward, would not advise. The road while in relatively good condition was boring for a stretch. Boring meaning it is similar to interstates with extended straight sections of road and not meant for drag racing. I passed one more junction for Trona and Ridgecrest before I began an ascent. This ascent would normally not concern me except for it advised turning off air conditioner to avoid overheating. Normally good advice, but I do not have AC on my motorcycle so I should be good, right...? Finally some sections had turns, ascents, descents, or a combination. I eventually started waving at anyone I saw to see how many responses I could garner. Some people reciprocated but most did not appear to acknowledge.

The descent was drastic as the highway cornered from 3000 feet, 2000 feet, 1000 feet, eventually sea level, and finally below sea level. Sections prior to the descent had been a cool 79-82 degrees Fahrenheit and once I was in the valley a nice toasty 90+ degrees. Starting the day out at 49 degrees and more than double it now in the valley. Since it was warm now I thought it might be a good idea to open the visor up for some cooling. I remembered what it felt like years ago to exit the vehicle in Death Valley. I immediately closed the visor because it was like opening the oven after cooking a meal. Not pleasant and I should know better. I continued into the valley, nearing Furnace Creek where I hoped to meet fool's paradise friends.

I finally made it to Furnace Creek campground and the visitor center should be near...and I thought I was paying attention. Where did the visitor center go? It should be here but now I am at Furnace Creek Golf Course. I have gone too far and the GPS did not say anything or did it? Well it said I was still forty minutes away, how? Let me follow directions. Badwater Basin?! This surely cannot be right. It was kind of right but it was routing me around to the nearest road so I could turn around. I decided to turn around sooner and I was only a few minutes away again.

I decided to fuel up as well while I was here. I should have enough gas to make it out but not a chance I am willing to take with spotty cellular service. I had a missed call from my friends at the visitor center so I called back. I let them know I was only a few minutes away and not dead yet. My friends let me know the visitor center was closing at 1700 which left me with about (20) twenty minutes. Fuel could wait and I went to the visitor center a few minutes down the road. I saw my friends waiting in the shade and I went straight into the visitor center. I needed to pay the fee before closing and buy some merchandise to support the park. I wanted to buy an annual park pass prior to the trip; however, I did not have enough time to wait for shipping when I made the decision. Fortunately I made it before closing and I was able to purchase my own America the Beautiful pass for $80 and since the ranger saw my helmet they provided the motorcycle decal as well. I went to the store section to buy a t-shirt, postcards, and a cool beverage before close.

I went outside after my purchases to meetup with my friends that have been waiting. It was only 112 degrees today so still cooler than the year I came out at 125 degrees. A different park ranger approached as I was loitering outside and asked if my bike was a Kawasaki Versys since they had only seen it from afar with the bags. I let them know it is a Ninja 1000 and I had rode back from across the country. I also told them the Versys will likely be my next motorcycle for more adventuring. They were a bit surprised since it is a Ninja, but I let them know it was not too bad. At least I do not think it has been too bad? You can be a judge based on my experiences posted here.

Anything can be an adventure bike if you believe.

They mentioned hoping to take some time off this summer and ride their Versys 650 up to Washington state. They carried on with their end of day duties and I went to talk to my friends so we could take some photos as well for proof of life documentation purposes. While we were catching up the ranger came back to chat. They had asked to get a closer look at my setup and I happily obliged. Sadly we did not exchange information and I hope they are able to make their adventure(s) happen.

I spent a few more minutes catching up with my friends in the parking lot. One had the audacity to ask if we could move to the shade and I politely declined. I told them if I could stand here with all my gear on then they could stand there looking good with their new hat. I doused my head in some water and we eventually went our separate ways. I still had to meet with my other friends at the campsite and they had to hit the Sand Dunes for some sand boarding. I went back to fuel up and paid the premium fee for premium gasoline. If I ended up stranded it would not be due to a lack of fuel.

I finally made it to camp around 1720 and I met up with my friends. I could finally rest, get out of my gear, and pay for my campsite ($16). While not couch surfing on this fine evening it was close enough. I had the company of good friends and a pleasant environment to enjoy. They brought food, beverages (including Dr Pepper), and conversation. They prepared some dinner which included delicious meat with some sweet buns. While eating dinner we heard faint oontz oontz from another campsite.

After dinner we caught up on life and discussed an array of topics. These topics ranged from: birds, simulation, graphics cards, work, and life. While talking my friend had asked about my camp plans for the night. As you know I over packed which meant I had a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, and camping chair. I did ask my friend to bring me a pillow because I did not pack one. I had put some thought into it earlier in the day and I decided glamping very very very basic cowboy camping (just this part: sleep without a tent under the stars) was the way to go. It would require less effort, only for a night, and a truly immersive experience with the great outdoors. I unpacked my REI Co-op Flexlite chair and my campsite was setup. It took forever for the sun to set and my friend was (un)surprisingly unable to make it set sooner. It was eventually extremely dark with the sun setting around 2100. There was an occasional breeze and it was a good evening. My friend started a fire and we passed on s'mores this time. If you need to know the desert is quite warm so the chocolate and ice cream liquefied. Some breezes were a bit strong so I was unsure if I would be safe outside if it picked up more consistently constantly.

Since Death Valley is a certified international dark sky park you could see actual stars and without moonlight. It really is a sight to see without all the traditional light pollution from the city. This is not the first time I have camped under the stars in Death Valley so this time I was not surprised by blanket of stars in the sky. I was only reminded how insignificant our existence is in the universe alone. While preparing to wrap up the evening we think we saw Starlink polluting traveling across the night sky around 2121. I think it was just a bit before 2300 when we prepared to turn in. I grabbed my pillow and walked over to my bed chair for the night. Zzz...

I knew it would not be a comfortable evening but I did not expect to be surrounded by assholes. At some point around 2330 the moon was rising behind me and bright lights rolled into camp directly in front of me, too many bright lights. I gave up counting at (8) eight vehicles and I was very irritated. I moved my chair over a few feet behind some shrubbery so I could have a bit more coverage from their obnoxious bright lights. As if the lights were not annoying enough they had their walkies going and talking to each other. I was half asleep but I am almost sure I heard Tagalog. I was even more annoyed now. No respect for the surrounding campsites. For context the above photo was taken at 0135, hours after they rolled into camp. What could the purpose be other than to be an absolute [insert expletive here]? I would have loved to kindly tell them to piss off, but it did not seem worth the risk should they be aggressive for being assholes.

I thought once I was knocked out again I would be fine. Unfortunately this would not be true and at some point in the night I heard some kids giggling and running around. I eventually fell asleep again only to be woken up by the occasional gusts of wind...and someone at another campsite behind me yelling at another group.

Shut up, it's 3 am and people are trying to sleep

Learn and follow (camp) etiquette.

And then I was out again for whatever remained of the night...to be continued.